Defense Secretary Lloyd Austin faces an early test as he races to advance a major initiative targeting far-right extremism in the ranks, a challenge that officials acknowledge is complicated by the Pentagon’s lack of clarity on the extent of the threat following the U.S. Capitol riot.
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Austin’s highly unusual order for a military-wide “stand-down,” slated to pause normal operations in coming weeks so troops can discuss internal support for extremist movements, underscores the urgency of the task ahead for the retired four-star general, who last month became the nation’s first African American Pentagon chief.
The Jan. 6 events at the Capitol, in which Trump supporters stormed Congress in an attempt to prevent President Biden from taking office, laid bare the appeal of white-supremacist and anti-government groups among some veterans and, in smaller numbers, currently serving troops. Among the 190 people charged in the siege, at least 30 are veterans. Three are reservists or National Guard members.
The involvement of individuals with military links follows several incidents in which troops have espoused support for racist or extremist movements on social media or to their peers.
The military’s planned stand-down comes as part of a larger Pentagon effort to reckon with its troubled history of racial discrimination, sexual assault and other internal scourges that officials say harm troops, threaten military values and damage recruitment and retention.
Even as they seek to get the effort off the ground, Pentagon officials are grappling with legal and institutional issues that have posed an impediment to addressing extremism in the past. Separate rules and disciplinary systems across the military services also present a challenge in managing a threat that is constantly evolving and difficult to define.
“We don’t know the full breadth and depth of this,” Pentagon spokesman John Kirby told reporters this month. “It may be more than we’re comfortable feeling and admitting, and probably a lot less than the media attention surrounding it seems to suggest it could be. But where is it? It’s just not clear.”
Officials attribute support in the military for far-right movements among troops to larger trends in American society. But experts say the stakes are particularly high for the military, which imbues specialized training and skills that could make far-right groups more powerful, and dangerous.
“What you want is for people who are trained with safeguarding the population in some capacity, who have military weapons training, to be better than the rest of the country at resisting, at not being susceptible, to propaganda, to ideological radicalization,” said Cynthia Miller-Idriss, director of the Polarization and Extremism Research and Innovation Lab at American University.
The Pentagon’s performance on this issue may constitute a key metric in the Biden administration’s effort to demonstrate a break with President Donald Trump, who was seen as tolerating and at times fueling far-right currents, which often overlapped with his political base.
For Austin, it represents both a political and management challenge, as he seeks to marshal the Pentagon’s vast bureaucracy and handle sensitivities around personal freedoms as he steps into his new role. The former combat commander, who was the first African American to hold a number of military jobs as he rose through the ranks, has said relatively little in public about his own experiences as a Black man in the U.S. military.
First among the challenges for Austin and his aides is the lack of centralized means of documenting and tracking incidence of extremism in military units.
Historical data from outside the government has suggested a correlation between military experience and right-wing terrorism. An academic analysis published in 2011 by the Justice Department’s Terrorism Research and Analysis Project found that right-wing terrorists have been significantly more likely to have military experience than other terrorists indicted in U.S. courts. They were also more than twice as likely to assume a leadership role in right-wing groups.
According to Michael Jensen, a senior researcher at the University of Maryland’s START Center, 15.6 percent of a sample of 1,534 individuals arrested for ideologically motivated crimes were veterans or serving in the U.S. military, significantly higher than the percentage of the population that are veterans or currently serving in the force. The database Jensen analyzed included U.S. arrests up to 2018 and dating back decades.
But official statistics provide only a fragmentary picture. Last month, Pentagon officials said the FBI had informed them about 68 domestic extremism cases in 2020 involving current or former troops. Little other data exists.
By: LeighAnn Andersen
Published: 02 August, 2011
Bows have been used as weapons in many areas around the world, including Mongolia. Mongolian horse bows are designed to be fired from the back of a horse. Though ancient construction techniques are complicated and often lost to time, it is possible to build a close approximation of the Mongolian horse bow in the comfort of your own home.
Find a pine sapling that is fairly straight and free of knots and bumps. It should be approximately 2 inches wide. Trim this sapling with the knife to no longer than the length of two of your arms. Any longer and the bow will be difficult to fire from the back of a horse. Strip the bark off the sapling with your hands and allow to dry overnight.
Decide which side of your sapling will be the back or the belly of the bow. Draw a straight line with a pencil down the back of the bow. Secure the bow in the vice with this line facing up.
Use the knife and file to give the bow some shape. A Mongolian horse bow should be wider in the middle and taper down towards the ends. The exact shape is up to you, but the bow should be comfortable to use. The widest part of the bow is the grip and should be in the center of the bow. When shaping the ends of the bow, be sure that they are at least 2 inches wide by 1/2 inch wide. Any thinner than 1/2 inch and the wood may not be strong enough to bear the weight and pressure of the bow.
Sand the bow completely smooth to prevent slivers. Use several leather straps to fasten the bow to a bench, belly-side up. The straps should hold the bow completely straight. Place the bench in the sun to dry for at least three days to gain the necessary flexibility.
Unstrap the bow and use the knife to carve a notch approximately 1 inch deep into each end of the bow. These are the nocks that will hold the bow string in place.
Varnish the entire bow with the varnish of your choice. Use a quality paintbrush and try to avoid brush strokes. Follow the manufacturer’s directions to determine drying time.
Apply glue to the grip area and secure the leather grip in place. Trim to size if needed. Allow the glue to dry according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Tie one end of the bow string to one of the nocks. Tighten the string and secure it to the second nock. Experiment a little to find the perfect tension. Once you’ve achieved a comfortable tension, the bow is ready to use.
Do not make your bow any longer than necessary. The goal is to easily move the bow from one side of the horse to the other while riding at speed, so the shorter the bow the better.
Wear protective eye gear when working with bow strings to protect your eyes in the event of a recoil.
Introduction: How to Make a Bow and Arrow
The classic bow and arrow, made simple.
Step 1: Some History
The bow that we will be making is called a longbow. It is very simple in design, and could be made from things almost everyone has.Longbows were ideally made from yew, Italian yew being the best, but white woods elm, ash, and hazel were commonly used due to availability. Longbows were often built to be as tall as the archer and a well made bow could shoot well in excess of 300 yards (275 meters) using flight arrows. A longbow archer could shoot up to 12 arrows per minute as a crossbow man could only fire up to three. For the rest of this article click here. Now lets get on to the fun stuff!
Step 2: Materials
This bow and arrow will be made from wood. The wood must be easy to bend, and is easiest to get from small trees. You will need a branch about an inch in diameter and 4-5 feet long for the bow and a branch about a half an inch in diameter and a foot long for the arrow. The length of the bow really depends on how tall you are. I’m about 5 and a half feet tall and my bow is around 4 and a quarter feet tall.
Step 3: Making the Bow
Making the bow is very simple. All that needs to be done is to cut two notches in each end of the bow. The notches should go about half way into the bow, and should be about half an inch from each end of the bow. Also the notches must be on the side of the bow opposite the inside of the natural curve of the branch. It will help if they are at as much of a right angle as possible. These notches will be used to hold the bow string in place when it is in use. This is a little hard to explain so check the pictures below for some clarification.
Step 4: Stringing the Bow
Now all thats left for the bow is to string it. To do this cut a piece of string that is about three fourths of the size of the bow. The string must be smaller than the bow in order to give the bow more power. The shorter the string the more power you will get, but it will also get harder to string the bow as the string is made shorter. Next, tie loops at each end of the string big enough to fit around the notch that you made in the last step. Take the loops that you just tied and put them around the notches on each end of the stick, the easiest way to do this is by placing your foot on the inside of the bow for some leverage. If the notches were made right then they will hold the bow string in place.
Step 5: The Arrow
The arrow can be made out of either a branch or a wooden dowel. I find the the wooden dowels work the best; however, I will show how to make one out of a branch because it includes an extra step that the dowel does not. If you have a dowel you can skip this step.
The first thing to do is to trim off the bark from the branch. The bark adds on weight that we don’t want, and makes the arrow rougher. To do this just take a knife and widdle the bark off of the stick, but make sure to leave two inches of bark at the base of the arrow, this bark will be used to glue on to in the next step. Next if you want to, you can sand the arrow down to reduce drag and to improve the accuracy but it really isn’t needed.
Step 6: Adding Feathers to the Arrow
Feathers are used on the base of the arrow to make the arrow spin during flight, which made it more accurate. Most people don’t have extra feathers lying around, so we will use heavy paper (card stock). Plastic could also be used as an alternative to the paper. Take the paper and cut right triangles out of it, the legs of the triangle should be about 1 and a quarter inches by 1 and three fourths inches. (The legs are the sides of the triangle that are not opposite the right angle.) Take these triangles and glue the second longest side near the base of the arrow about a quarter of an inch away from the very bottom. Make sure to evenly space the triangles out around the circumference of the arrow. Now cut a small notch into the center of the base of the bow for the string to sit in, without this notch the arrow would be extremely hard to shoot.
Step 7: How to Use Your Bow and Arrow
In the movies they make shooting a bow and arrow look like a piece of cake, but its not! Hold the bow with your weaker arm in the middle of the bow. Then grip the arrow with your thumb, pointer, and middle fingers each in between one of the paper feathers. Pull back the arrow against the string as far as you can, and watch the arrow fly, you will be amazed by how far this easy to build bow can shoot.
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Learn how to make a working paper bow and arrow. This simple craft requires little supplies. Your children will love using their own origami bow that actually shoots!
For our Disney themed activity today, I decided to throw caution to the wind and have my daughter pick out a Disney movie.
And I quickly regretted my decision because she picked Brave. Not that I don’t like Brave – in fact, I love how strong and skilled Merida is. She kind of reminds me of my daughter! But, there just aren’t too many craft ideas I can think of pertaining to Brave.
I proposed that we make bear masks. Nope. It has to be about the princess and not the mom or brothers. Why can’t do we another Frozen day?
So guess what we ended up making? Merida’s bow and arrow! To my son’s delight (who grumbled when he heard we were doing a princess project today), the mini bow and arrow we made out of paper worked so well that the arrow can fly straight across the room!
Continue reading to see what else we shot with our paper bow and arrow.
How to Make Bow and Arrow Out of Paper
- 3 sheets of construction papers
- Rubber band
- Skewer sticks (for the arrows)
- Optional: Drinking straw
- Take a sheet of rectangular construction paper and fold it as shown.
- Use the edge as a guide to cut off the lower rectangle.
- Unfold the triangle. You should now have a square with a diagonal crease in it.
- Turn the square so that you now have a diamond.
- Start folding at the bottom angle and continue folding until you have folded the entire paper. Try to keep the folds as small as possible so that in the end you get a narrow stick.
- Tape the loose end of the paper down.
- Repeat #1-6 with two other pieces of construction paper.
- Take 2 of the sticks and cut about 1 inch off each end of the sticks.
- Overlap the two sticks about 2 inches and tape the two sticks together.
- Bend the sticks a little at the ends of the overlapped portion.
- Take one end of the stick and cut a small slit down the middle.
- Repeat #11 with the other end.
- Cut the rubber band so that you now have a long string.
- Stick one end of the rubber band through one of the slits and tape it to the stick.
- Repeat #14 with the other end.
- Take the remaining stick and cut it just a little longer than the overlapping portion of the other two sticks.
- Tape the ends of the remaining stick to the other two sticks. This essentially straightens the bow slightly so that the rubber band is tauter.
- Use the skewer sticks as your arrows, pull back on the rubber band, and shoot!
- Optional: Cut about 1 inch of the drinking straw and tape it to the arrow. You can stick the skewer stick through it and use it as an arrow rest. This is
- Optional: Cut a small piece of construction paper and wrap it around the rubber band where you would place the end of the arrow. Tape it so that it stays in place.
I want to explain steps #18 and #19 in the directions. You don’t need to do those steps for older kids because they can easily pull back the arrow with the rubber band behind it. They can also use the hand that’s holding the bow as an arrow rest by placing a finger below the arrow.
However, for younger kids like my daughter, she couldn’t hold the arrow straight. She also had trouble pulling the rubber band back so that it’s behind the arrow. Therefore, I used the straw as her arrow guide and used a piece of construction paper to help her pull the arrow back with the rubber band behind it.
Are you surprised at how well this paper bow and arrow shoots? When my kids first shot it, the skewer stick flew straight across the room. Then at one point, my son shot at the wall and the skewer stick got stuck in the wall. Oops.
Warning: Please supervise your kids carefully. As you can see from the video, the paper bow and arrow can actually shoot forcefully enough to pop balloons and pierce through foam boards.
That said, you don’t have to use skewer sticks for the arrows. We did find them to perform very well, but they do have sharp, pointing ends that can be dangerous.
You can try using disposable wooden chopsticks as arrows, or you can even make an additional paper stick. While you still shouldn’t take your eyes off your kids when they are shooting anything with this much force, chopsticks or other types of sticks at least do not have pointy ends.
How to Play with the DIY Bow and Arrow for Kids
Here are some fun ideas for playing with the paper bow and arrow.
- Shooting at a bullseye (self-explanatory).
- Shooting at stacked cups. Using mini red cups, we stacked them high in a triangle formation. Then we tried to shoot at the stacked cups to see who can knock the most down in one shot.
- Shooting at balloons. My kids absolutely loved this. We blew up water balloons and taped the balloons to a foam board. Then we shot at the balloons! The person who popped the most balloons win. This is like the carnival game you play with darts, except bow and arrows are even more fun!
- Shooting at filled water balloons. My son wanted to do this so badly but I didn’t have all the materials for it. Similar to shooting at the balloons, you would want to fill the water balloons up with water instead of air. Then secure it to a board.
Taping the balloons won’t work because the water makes the balloons quite heavy, so you would probably have to nail them to the board. I didn’t have a wooden board that I can use the nails on so the kids will just need to wait for another day for this one.
There you go! My daughter was happy pretending to be Merida in Brave with her paper bow and arrow. My son was happy with a bow and arrow that actually shoots well. Overall, a successful Disney themed day!
How to make arrows? It’s a question I frequently get asked. Here I hope to impart my knowledge on to you, so read on!
Making arrows for yourself is an excellent step to lowering the cost of hunting and can also be done in the field if you are very skilled. Moreover, there are other reasons, such as a customizing your own game plan and strike style.
The idea behind designing and making your arrows is to learn the working of every component. It will help you in understanding the shot and projections for a better success rate.
As we know, hunting teaches survival skills better than anything, and making bow arrows helps you sharpen the survival skill even better (self-reliance). Archery as a sport is also based on the same principle: to learn how to survive! An essential survival skill like arrow making is a good step towards self-reliance if you need to build your own defense or require a hunt to satiate hunger.
Regardless of your motive, arrow-making requires some basic knowledge of the various parts of this tool. Let’s see all of them from the tip end!
What is Arrowhead?
The leading tip of the arrow is the arrowhead. It is sharp and can pierce through the target. An arrowhead may be of various kinds, such as skinny or broad. This part can be made out of stone or metal. There are two primary kinds: Skinny & Broad.
What is the shaft?
The thin part of the arrow (body) is called the arrow shaft. This part attaches the fletchings to the arrowhead. You may say that the shaft holds together all of it!
The fletchings are the wings of the arrow. The arrow flight trajectory is controlled by the fletchings, which can be a blade of feathers or plastic.
Hitting a target with an arrow without fletchings is not only difficult but dangerous too.
What is the Nock?
The last part of the arrow is the nock, a small point at the end (back tip). This part is where the arrow comes in contact with the bowstring.
This part is small yet plays a vital role in your shooting. Without a nock, the full force from stretching the string will not be transferred to the arrow. You cannot ignore the nock!
How to make Arrows?
Table of Contents
Let’s begin to learn how to start building an arrow, approaching it like a recipe. That way, you know what to use, how much to use, and what to expect!
You can build an arrow by making all the parts and then assembling them efficiently. For this purpose, you will make the arrowhead with care so that it serves the purpose of shooting the target correctly.
Making the arrowhead
Making the arrowhead is easy with numerous raw material choices. It needs to be sharp, but there is no restriction on the material with which you make it. The basic steps of making an arrowhead are as follows:
- Use a hammer or rock to break a piece of flint or chert. You can also look for a pointed rock and shape it in a way to become a thin and sharp arrowhead. The triangular piece must be less than two inches long and the width must be less than one inch.
- This shaping process is also called flint knapping, and you can always keep the arrowhead jagged or rough to add a more lethal quality!
- Grinding is the step where you use a sharp stone or sandpaper to going the edge until it becomes sharp as you want it to be!
- Lastly, you can make a slight indent at the bottom of the arrowhead, where you will be attaching it to the shaft. You must have seen how the arrowhead is tied to the shaft with a jute string, we have something similar in mind!
Moving on to the shaft
The shaft is usually made of plastic or light wood. We need the arrow to shoot through with ease and not fall off the track due to weight. The arrowhead is already a heavier part so try to find a very light material.
The shaft has to be round and balanced to give your shot the trajectory it needs for success. Look for a uniformly thick and round stick to use as a shaft.
The process of making a shaft will require some precision tools if you choose wood for this part.
The wooden stick you select must be chiseled to perfection, and then roundness can be perfected with sandpaper. However, if you choose plastic, there’s a chance you will find a finely rounded piece that is of the desired length.
Adding the fletchings
Now we come to the breaking point, which enhances speed and also direction. Fletchings are usually made of feathers, and this is a relatively simple step as you require a few feathers that can be attached to the shaft with duct tape.
Try to keep your fletchings at an equal distance from one another so that the arrow does not waste energy on rotating itself due to unbalanced fletchings causing the wind to move the arrow.
Another way to secure the fletchings on the shaft is with a fletching jig.
The jig will keep the feathers firmly attached while ensuring equal distance. If you want to place feathers around the base, that is also done neatly with a jig.
Now comes the nock
The last part to attach is the nock. You must wonder that it is just an indent at the end of the arrow, but this small piece has much importance. Creating an indent is easy as it only requires a saw or a cutter.
Putting everything together
Assembling the arrow is always fun as you get to see the result of your project. The arrowhead can be attached to the shaft with a thin jute rope to stay in place.
If you choose to make an arrowhead of glass or any other material, you can also use adhesive to stick the head to the rest of the arrow.
Once your arrow is complete, the only thing left to do is head out to the woods and try your new Do It Yourself project!
Building your arrow is a survival skill all hinters and archers must have. There are numerous brands of arrows and volts available in the market but making your own tools is always more challenging; hence the level of achievement at every shot is manifold.
Additionally, you can save some bucks on every hunting trip without compromising on your success! Try the simple method of making an arrow, and you will be surprised to discover the craftsman in you!
A step-by-step guide on making a Native American longbow.
For more than a century, Popular Mechanics has provided life-saving advice for outlasting storms, surviving outdoors, and preparing for disaster. Find out how to survive anything right here.
Primitive bows and arrows were made using raw materials such as the wood from various trees including ash, hickory, cedar, oak, walnut, and birches. In some instances, Native Americans used the antlers and other bones from different animals when available. These included elk and caribou antlers, bison ribs and horns, and mountain sheep horns.
According to the University of Iowa, typical Native American bows ranged from the self bow, a bow featuring a single stave of wood, to the backed bow which was made of wood and was reinforced with sinew, and finally, the composite bow, which featured some combination of a horn or antler and a sinew backing. The sinew was usually from the back of an animal or a leg tendon but was sometimes made of rawhide or intestines. Some tribes fabricated cords from the necks of snapping turtles while others used materials like plant fibers to use as cords.
Luckily, we no longer need most of these gruesome materials to create our homemade bow and arrow sets. We spoke to Michael Spink, who started making his own bows after a compound bow failed him on turkey hunt several years back, who showed us the best way to DIY a bow right at home.
Whether you’re an archer or a hunter who prefers using a custom, hand-forged weapon, this tutorial will help you masterfully craft your very own bow and arrow set. Here, Spink walks us through how to make a 68-inch Native American longbow.
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What a perfect time of year to do a fun project based engineering project with kids? My kids recently learned about bridges and caught the engineering bug. This how to make a bow and arrow post will make your kids smile this Valentine’s Day (maybe even more than chocolate).
How to Make a Bow and Arrow
You’ll find there are many ways to make a bow and arrow. This example is simple and easy for kids to build.
Sir James Dyson
How to Make a Bow and Arrow with Kids
This version of a bow and arrow is a “truss based” bow frame. For the arrow, use a straw with a weight at the tip. The straw should be able to launch 10-15 feet at least. Please be sure to remind your children to avoid aiming the arrow at any sensitive target like a person or breakable object!
Materials Needed to Make a Bow and Arrow
- 12 Craft Sticks
- 2 Half Craft Sticks
- 5 1/2-1 inch wooden blocks
- Glue gun stick
- Sturdy straw
- Glue gun
- Rubber Band
How to Make a Bow and Arrow Approach
Place a craft stick on a flat surface and hot glue three blocks equidistant from one another.
- Place another craft stick on top and hot glue it onto the blocks
- Get two more craft sticks and glue out from each end of the bottom of the original craft stick
- Now you want to make sure the bow is strong enough to hold the tension of the rubber band. So, you will reinforce the bow by adding three craft sticks on each side in the shape of a wide letter “a” (see the bottom image in the below collage)
Now it is time to use your two half craft sticks. Hot glue a half craft stick on each end of your bow with the rounded end of the craft stick pointing up on the outside of your bow. You will hook your rubber band around these half craft sticks.
- From here, you stretch your rubber band around each end to get your nice taut rubber band for launching. This is where all the energy is stored for your arrow.
- Tape the rubber band together to strengthen it and make it easier to launch your arrow
- Now it is time to make your arrow. Grab the straw. Cut a small slit in the end to make sliding the glue stick into the straw a bit easier. The glue stick weights the arrow to give it momentum to shoot through the air.
- Wrap the other end of the straw with tape and cut two slits on each side for the rubber band as you prepare to launch
- Load your arrow and pinch your fingers onto the rubber band
- Pull back and launch the beauty!
Science Behind the Bow and Arrow
A bow and arrow demonstrate physics. Specifically, the concept of energy transformation and momentum. The energy stored in the bow and arrow is called kinetic energy.
Further Bow and Arrow Experimenting
- Test different materials such as various sized craft sticks, wooden blocks, straws, and rubber bands. How do these changes impact the trajectory or the functionality of the bow and arrow?
- Try pulling back the arrow at different speeds and distances
- What happens when we add a rubber band?
- What if we didn’t weigh the arrow with a glue stick? (The air would catch the arrow, slow it down, and prevent it from going any meaningful distance.)
- Make it fun by allowing children to design their own bow and arrow with markers and paint
- Create a target range for children. Make it a game!
I hope you found this tutorial useful and easy to follow! Check out my favorite engineering books for kids for more amazing science and engineering projects for kids!
About Marnie Craycroft
Marnie hails from Maine where she spent summers buried in sand and winters buried in snow. She is the daughter of a nearly four decade veteran of the public school systems. Teaching has always been a part of her life. She founded Carrots Are Orange in 2010.
Carrots Are Orange is a Montessori learning and living website for parents and teachers.
Marnie graduated from Wesleyan University in 1999 with a BA in Economics. She spent nearly a decade working in investment management. In 2006, she earned her MA in business from the University of Washington’s Foster School of Business.
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Medieval bows and arrows were powerful weapons of war. In an age before gunpowder, they offered one of the few possibilities of fighting at long range. Medieval bows and arrows provided a role for the common soldier. The English longbow was particularly famous. Nearly the size of a man, this longbow was capable of inflicting terrible damage on troops of armored knights. Let us take a look at how to make a medieval bow and a set of arrows.
Items you will need
Ash or poplar rods
Small pieces of iron
Goose or turkey feathers
To make a medieval bow and set of arrows, begin with a strip of wood about 2 inches wide. Medieval longbows were made of yew. Yew has just the right amount of tensile and compressive strength. The wooden strip should be about 6 feet in length. Take the strip of wood and soak it or steam it. Bend the wood as it softens. You must gradually pull it into the shape of a bow.
Cut nocks near each end of the bow. Nocks are slits to hold the bowstring. Take the bowstring and attach it to the nocks. Almost any flexible string may be used as a bowstring. Traditional bowstrings were made of lengths of linen or hemp that were twisted first one way and then back again the other. They could also be made of sinew or leather. Modern bowstrings are often of Kevlar or Dacron.
To make arrows for your medieval bow, use thin rods of ash or poplar wood. These rods should about 30 inches long. Sand them down so that they taper from 1/2 of an inch thick at the head to 3/8 inch thick at the nock end. Grind down the head still further to make a place to hold the arrowhead. The arrow will fit over the end similar to the way a cap might fit over a screw or nail.
Make your medieval arrow heads out of small pieces of iron. Heat them at a forge and bang them into shape on an anvil. Hammer the sides thinner than the main body of the arrow. Form the lower portion of the arrow into a hollow tube that can fit over the head of the arrow shaft. Take the finished arrow and glue it onto the head of the arrow shaft.
Cut a nock into the end of the medieval arrow. The nock is the slit that is placed against the bowstring when the arrow is shot. Goose or turkey feathers form the fletching, or feathers, that attach in front of the nock. To cut these feathers to the appropriate angular shape, attach them to a piece of tape and cut. A fletching jig is used to cut the fletching slots into the arrow shaft. Place these just in front of the nock. Insert the fletching in the fletching slots. Take thin string and tie it carefully around the fletchings. You must pass the string evenly in between the barbs of their feathers. Secure both ends of the string with a little bit of glue. Your arrows are ready to use.
It’s hunting time in The Forest, grab yourself a bow!
The Forest is all about survival and to survive you need food.
This is where you’ll need to hunt.
Of course, you can chase after animals and swing at them with your axe but it’s not very effective.
So, let’s make a bow and get to hunting!
Keep reading to find out the recipe to create a bow.
How To Make A Bow
Creating a bow will set you back 1 Stick and 1 Cloth and 1 Rope.
Getting Sticks is easy, you can find some on the group or cut at a bush and they will fall onto the ground.
You can find cloth in the suitcases surrounded the plan crash or in cannibal villages.
Rope can be obtained two ways, one of which is to combine 7 Cloth, otherwise, you can find them in cannibal villages.
Combine all of the items in your backpack by right-clicking them.
Once you have them all in the middle, right-click the cogwheel and you’ll have yourself a bow.
How To Make Arrows
Now let’s make some arrows to use with our bow.
Creating arrows will require 1 Stick and 5 Feathers.
You can craft 5 arrows at a time.
You can collect sticks as mentioned earlier.
To get feathers you’ll need to kill some birds.
When you do so, you should see some feathers floating in the air.
Otherwise, you can set up a birdhouse.
Combine the Stick and Feathers in your backpack by right-clicking them.
Once you have them all in the middle, right-click the cogwheel and you’ll have some arrows!
You can also create an arrow basket to store any extra you have! This will become vital later into the game.
There are a few different types of arrows in the game.
Each can be created by adding extra items, you can find them below:
- Bone Arrows
- Add 5 bones to the recipe
- Deals 40% more damage
- Fire Arrows
- Add 1 Cloth and 1 Booze to the recipe
- Makes arrows flammable
- Deals burn damage
- Poison Arrows
- Add Twin Berries, Snow Berries, Amanita Mushroom or Jack Mushroom to the recipe
- Deals poison damage.
INSIDE : Learn how to make a Valentine’s Day DIY Cupid’s Bow and Arrow craft with your kids! Also these would be such fun decor for a Galentine’s Day party with friends.
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I hosted a CUTE Valentine’s Day party with some friends and their kids. We had four kiddos under five… all I can say is wow, ha. I knew right away with that crowd I wanted minimal candy and maximum crafts.
Everyone made a Cupid’s Bow and Arrow craft and I think they were a big hit! Today I am sharing how to make a Valentine’s Day DIY Cupid’s Bow and Arrow craft with your kiddos!
What supplies do I need to make a Cupid Bow and Arrow?
Paper Straws (pink or red)
Various colored felts (I used cream, white, gray, red and pink)
Leftover wrapping paper roll
String or Yarn
How do I make a Paper Bow and Arrow craft?
Make a Valentine’s Cupid Arrow-
Before the guests arrived, I pre-cut all the arrow heads and bottoms from the felt. Make sure to fold the felt in half so you end up with perfectly matching double pieces.
We let the kids pick which colors they wanted and then it was a parent job to hot.glue the felt onto the straws. We basically sandwiched the straw in-between the two felt pieces and glued away.
Make a Cupid Quiver-
Next up the kids got to decorate the bow + arrow Quiver. I had precut two wrapping paper rolls into approximately 8″ lengths. You could also use paper towel rolls for this part.
Each kiddo used colored pencils, crayons, stickers and washi tape to decorate to their little heart’s desire.
Some went minimalist (the boys) and some went all out (the girls), but it was adorable to see everyone’s little hands so busy working on their valentine craft project!
Lastly, we hot glued a circular piece of felt to the bottom of the quiver to keep all the arrows secured inside.
Valentine Kid Craft
These were such simple little crafts, but they were fun to make and such a hit to play with afterwards!
Be sure to check out the setup and decorations for this adorable Valentine’s Day party!
Looking for more Valentine’s related projects? You will love these:
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Today I want to share a quick tutorial on how to make a play bow and arrow – for under $1! – – amazing, right. Enjoy this DIY Bow and Arrow for kids!
You might have gotten a sneak peek of this project over at Trevor’s, aka Mr. Sugar Bee Crafts, blog : So I Married a Craft Blogger. (and if not, go check it out – his perspective is always funny).
But basically I came home and the kids were all in bed, and he showed me this picture – I thought wowza, he’s super dad!!
But of course, he didn’t do a tutorial or anything, so I tried to put something together for you after-the-fact.
DIY Bow and Arrow for kids
–sticks for arrows
DIY Bow and Arrow Instructions
You need to buy 10 ft 1/2 in gray plastic conduit. You find it in the electrical department. But anyways, he bought 2 pieces, and his grand total was $2.12. Then on the way out, you’ll need some of the twine that’s free at the front of the store – normally used to tie down big things that you buy. He made 6 bows with that – so $0.35 for each bow, plus supplies we had laying around. Sweet.
So, take the pipe and cut it into the desired lengths. The taller kids have longer bows and the shorter kids have shorter bows – just guestimate.
Then drill holes in the top and bottom of the pipe to attach the string. Pull it tight a little to give the bow that curved look. Here’s a close up of the holes:
For the arrows, he used some old bambo stick things that we used in our garden last year to hold up the plants. He notched out the back of them to make a slot for the string, and he wrapped the front with duct tape to prevent any injuries. He also used duct tape to make a feather-type thing near the back – probably helps the arrow fly straighter – here’s the up close pictures of that:
So you hook the arrow onto the string, like so:
And then pull back, and let go:
I have a super quick video for you, of the bow and arrow in action. They work surprisingly well. In the video, I loose the arrow in the sun, but it shoots clear across the street. Here ya go – get excited!!
See, awesome, right. Enjoy making your own DIY Bow and Arrow for kids!
Projects to make for Kids
If you love to make DIY Projects for your kids, you might also want to check out:
I made a bow and arrows in the wild using only natural materials and primitive tools I’d made previously from scratch (as usual). The tools used were a celt stone hatchet, a stone chisel, various stone blades and fire sticks.
The stave began as a small tree (probably northern olive) about 5 cm (2 inches) in diameter which I cut to a length of 1.25 m (50 inches) using a celt hatchet. I don’t know the name of the timber but it’s very common here and is the same type I use for axe handles. I then split the stave in two using a stone chisel and mallet. Selecting one stave, I began shaping the bow. The stave twisted slightly along its length so using the chisel I split off wood at the ends of the stave but on opposite sides. This then gave a straight, flat stave. From this point I began narrowing the width and to a lesser extent the depth of the bow limbs so they tapered towards the tips of the bow limbs. This was done using the chisel, a large chopping stone and smaller scraping stones only removing wood from the belly and side of the bow. Importantly, the back of the bow was not cut at all as this would cause it to break under stress. The bark was even left on to help protect the back of the bow from accidental cuts and scrapes. At the middle of the bow I narrowed the width of the bow slightly to form a handle about 12.5 cm long. Importantly, I did not narrow the depth of the bow as this would weaken it. This narrow handle section is not essential but makes the bow easier to grip and puts the arrow closer to the center of the bow. Simple string nocks were then carved into the sides of the tips of the bow. I cut and split the wood in one afternoon, and did the rest the next day (in other words it only took about a day to make).
I made the string for the bow using the bark from a fast growing tree that grows in disturbed rain-forest clearings. The tree is a pioneer species that grows quickly with weak timber but strong bark fiber. Note in the video that the tree I took already has a new shoot and so will grow another branch from the stump. The bark was stripped and shredded. The next day I twisted the thin strips of fiber into cordage. To make cordage, two strands of fiber are individually twisted in (say) a clockwise direction but are then twisted together in an anti-clockwise direction. This way the individual strands want to unravel in one direction but can’t because they are twisted together in the opposite direction.
Next I strung up the bow. Note in the video that limb on the right side of the screen bends more than the left limb. To fix this, I left the bow strung up and scraped wood off the belly of the limb that bent the least, a process called tillering. This caused the limb to bend more so that it roughly mirrored the other limb. More tillering was done to make the limbs bend evenly along their length. If a limb bends unevenly in one spot a hinge can develop and puts uneven amounts of stress on the limb possibly causing it to break. The result of my efforts was a reasonably symmetrical bow without any obvious hinging.
For the arrows I used small saplings between 6 and 8 mm in diameter and cut to a length of 60 cm. The bark was scraped off because it would otherwise come off with use in an irregular manner causing an uneven shape effecting its flight. A notch was carved in the back of each arrow with a stone blade deep enough to accept the bow string. If the notches are not deep enough the arrow can come off the string while releasing causing a misfire. The tip of the arrow was charred in a fire and sharpened against a rock. The fire hardens the wood and makes it easier to sharpen as charred wood scrapes off with ease. The fletching was made from the feathers of a bush turkey picked up from the ground (no turkeys were harmed in the making of this video). One feather fletched one arrow each. The feather was split in half and cut into three lengths. Each fletch had the front and back reduced to its spine to be tied onto the shaft. Tree resin was used to hold the fletching one and thin pieces of bark fibre were used to lash the fletching down. Finally, the fletching was neatly trimmed using a hot coal from the fire, melting the feather to shape rather than cutting it. Each arrow took about 1 hour to make not including the time spent looking for shafts. A quiver to hold the arrows was also made from bark.
It’s noteworthy that all the shooting in this video was done less than a week after cutting the wood meaning the bow was still green. Ideally the wood should be left to season or dry out before use. I cleared a shooting range in a clearing with a bank behind it to catch stray arrows. The target was a partially rotten log so that the arrows wouldn’t get damaged too much. The shooting was done at a distance of 10 m. At this range accuracy was a bit more than 50% with reasonable force behind the shots. Accuracy would probably improve with practice and consistently made arrows. The arrows embedded themselves strongly into the wood and were difficult to remove. The string was fairly durable. I made two strings for the bow. During my practice I had the string break only 3 times while firing the arrows 200 or 300 times.
I don’t know the draw weight of this bow but it’s probably at least 15 kg (35 pounds) if not greater (I made a similar, smaller bow at home and hung a 15 kg weight that drew 33 cm). The short size of the bow (1.25m) made it easy to construct and easy to find a straight piece of wood. The string is short and also easy to make with less places to break. The 60 cm (2 foot) long arrows are short like the bow, making it easy to find straight shafts. The method of splitting the stave saved effort in removing wood as opposed to carving a bow from a log. The cross section of the bow limbs are rectangular and are less likely to break than a round cross section. The stress on the back of the bow is spread wider with a rectangular cross section than a round one. Short bows tend to shoot with high velocity too.
Hunting is heavily restricted here in Australia to conserve our native fauna. I have not hunted any animals and made the bow simply as an exercise in primitive technology. However I’ll attempt to address the question of the effectiveness as a hunting weapon. In the video I got footage of a scrub turkey standing about 5 m away. At this range most people could most certainly hit a target of that size with minimal practice. The arrow would certainly pierce it and it would provide a good meal and lots feathers for fletching new arrows, justifying the effort used to make a bow. For larger game such as pigs it could work probably at a range of 10 m provided aim was perfect and the arrows were very sharp. This weapon is definitely more accurate than a sling for a beginner and would probably be more reliable though it takes more time to make.
The ultimate in back-to-basics archery
By Mark Hicks | Published Apr 1, 2004 5:00 AM
I’ve taken a lot of deer, but the one that I’m most jazzed about is the one I shot with my self-made bow.
You can use white woods like hickory and ash, or heartwoods like osage, mulberry, and black locust. Beginners should use hickory because it’s relatively free of knots. You can buy stave splits—single sections of wood split naturally along the grain–from traditional archery dealers, or cut your own. In either case, you need summer growth rings at least 1/8 inch thick.
CUTTING YOUR OWN
To pound out splits from a felled tree, use wedges and a sledgehammer. The trunk should be straight, reasonably knot-free, and at least 6 to 7 feet long and 16 to 18 inches in diameter. Split the log in half. Off each half, hammer splits that measure 3 1/2 to 4 inches wide. Each will yield one bow. Immediately coat all the ends with shellac to prevent the green wood from splitting on its own.
SHAVING THE STAVE
Note the stave’s growth rings at either end–laminations of winter growth rings separating thicker summer rings.
Secure the stave in a vise and shave off the bark and sapwood with a drawknife to expose one unbroken summer growth ring along the back (bark side; photo B). With hickory, peel the bark to reveal the sapwood and shave off the remaining layer (cambium) with a cabinet scraper. With heartwoods, you must shave off the bark and white sapwood with a drawknife to reach the darker, denser wood beneath.
Draw down to the winter growth ring just above the summer growth ring you have selected. Pare away the final winter growth ring with a cabinet scraper, following the growth ring from one end of the stave to the other. Take care not to cut through any knots, bumps, or swales along the growth ring because doing so will cause the bow to fail.
DRYING AND SHAPING
Pare the green stave with a hatchet and a drawknife so that it’s slightly larger than the shape of your intended design. Before the drying process, paint the exposed back with shellac to prevent splitting. Now you wait: In a few weeks, the wood will come down to about 15 percent moisture content. To bring it down to an optimum 8 percent, put the stave in a heat box at 100 degrees for two more weeks.
You can make a 1 X 1 X 8-foot heat box from a single sheet of plywood. Put two or three light fixtures along the bottom of the box to hold 40-watt light bulbs for heating elements. Insulate the box with a surplus sleeping bag.
After drying, draw the bow’s outline (length and width) on the exposed growth ring, taking care to maintain a straight centerline. You may choose from a variety of shapes, depending on the type of wood you are working with.
Opt for a length of 70 inches on white wood, 64 inches on osage. The middle 8 inches of the stave forms the handle and the base of the limbs. The handle will finish about 1 1/2 inches thick. The limbs should be 1 1/2 to 2 inches at their widest point across (and 5/8 inch thick), tapering to 5/8 inch across at the tips (3/8 inch thick).
Reduce the stave to your outline with a drawknife, rasp, and file (making sure not to cut into the growth ring atop the back of the bow). Remove wood on the bow’s belly (string side) and handle to slightly oversize dimensions.
Tiller to achieve an even flex (D and E.) David
Shaving the belly of each limb to achieve the correct thickness is a process called tillering. Remove wood evenly from the belly with a file and cabinet scraper until the limbs are thin enough to begin bending. Check the tiller (bendability) by holding the bow up-right by one limb, placing the other limb on the floor, and pushing firmly on the handle with your free hand to bend the bottom limb. Do this for both limbs.
Look for flat spots that reveal where the limbs are too stiff and shave wood from them with a rasp, file, and cabinet scraper. Take off only small amounts of wood at a time, and keep repeating the process. When the bow bends enough to be strung, it should still be well over your desired draw weight (50 to 60 pounds).
String the bow and bring it to its full draw weight—and no further—a few times (check this with a bow scale). Again, shave wood from the bow’s belly to eliminate flat spots. The goal is to achieve a perfectly even bend in the limbs. A tillering stand (photo D) lets you study how the limbs bend from a side view. Cut a notch in one end of a 2×4 for the bow’s handle, and notches every 2 inches along the board’s edge to hold the string.
Bend the bow to your desired draw weight a few times after each shaving session. After several repetitions, the bow will eventually reach your draw length. The closer you get to your draw weight, the less wood you should remove between bending sessions. The bow will lose weight when you shoot it in, so stop tillering when it is 5 to 10 pounds heavy.
Sand the entire bow with 80-, 150-, and then 220-grit paper. Stain is optional. Seal the wood with three coats of clear gloss polyurethane, and a final coat of clear satin polyurethane.
Learn bow building, flint knapping, and other primitive arts at the Primitive Gathering at Camp Tuscazoar in eastern Ohio.
MATERIALS & WORK HOURS
The cost is minimal if you cut your own wood. If you’re buying a stave from a dealer, you’ll save on drying time (4-6 weeks if cutting your own).
Store-bought stave (72 inches long)
Standard plywood sheet (for drying box)
Three 40-watt lightbulbs (for drying box)
Standard 2×4 (for tillering stand)
Assorted sandpaper (220-, 150-, and 80-grit)
Clear-gloss and satin-finish polyurethane
TOTAL COST: $75–$130 TOTAL WORK TIME: 24-48 hours
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Make a Homemade Bow for Archery in Your Homeschool
If you’re on the lookout for a homeschool STEM activity for high school and middle school students, you have come to the right place. Check out these instructions on how to make a homemade bow for archery.
Nicole (our oldest girl) has recently gotten into archery. Her long-term goal is to get into mounted archery. Yes, she wants to shoot arrows from the back of a horse.
Obviously, this is going to be a long-term project, with a lot of work involved.
The first step is for her to get good at shooting with a bow and arrow. So we have added archery practice to Nicole’s schooling.
Unfortunately, we could not find a bow that would work for her in the stores for less than a FREAKISH amount of money. (We’re not rich yet, folks!) So Ben did some searching and he found a YouTube tutorial for making a child’s bow from a piece of PVC pipe.
I was skeptical but Ben was excited. So I set them free.
And this is what they came up with.
Isn’t that impressive? I must say I was shocked at what they came up with. When they said they were making a bow out of PVC pipe, I expected a cheap piece of garbage. Seriously.
I can admit when I’m wrong!
So anyways, this is Nicole’s current STEAM project.
Child-Sized DIY Bow From PVC Pipe Tutorial
Making a homemade archery bow is a great STEM project for kids.
Mapping out the project, measuring and shaping the parts, and putting everything together is a fun way for kids to learn STEM.
Add the art project that goes along with a sport such as archery and you’ve got the perfect DIY STEAM activity.
We did not make our own instructional video for this project. But I am embedding the videos that we did follow. Thanks to Backyard Bower (found on YouTube) for these simple tutorial videos. Go give him a subscribe if you find these useful. Use these videos in your lesson plans for some very happy kids. Enjoy!
And the second video.
More Edible STEM Resources (Including a Free Printable)
If you liked this edible STEM activity, you are going to love the STEM Made Easy Books. Each book includes 10 STEM projects along with instructions for how to make them fun and engaging for kids ages 3-19. Check out the Edibles Edition now!
Or read more about the books in this article on homeschool STEM curriculum.
Want a Free Chapter Sample?
Sign up to get a complete project chapter sent to you so you can see exactly what’s inside each of the STEM Made Easy books.
I’ve also got this ultimate list of STEAM and STEM activities for kids of all ages if you want to take a look.
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These kid’s bow and arrows are really easy and surprisingly shoot really well! The arrows aren’t super heavy so they don’t fly straight like an arrow, but it serves the purpose. Lots of fun long hours put into these bows. I made about 20 of these for a family reunion, and the kids love them! I made them targets to shoot at, and the boys carried them around on their backs all day!
Here are the supplies you need for 1 bow
- 1/2 inch PVC pipe – 4 ft
- 1 swimming noodle
- 1 – 1/4 inch wooden dowel
- 2 small nuts (that you screw on a bolt, not the kind you eat! :))
- 1 nerf dart
- I use this string or something similar
First take your PVC pipe that is 4 feet long and cut, either with a hand saw or a band saw, a slit on each end of the pipe. Make the slit about an inch long.
Cut your string the length of your PVC pipe and tie a small nut onto one end of the string. Place the nut and string in the PVC and pull the string down the one inch slit you made. The nut will hold it in place.
Cut a 2 inch section from the pool noodle and slide it on the PVC pipe.
Now tie the other nut on the other end of the string about 5-6 inches from the end. You will be bending your pipe
Insert your nut and string into the PVC pipe slot you made. This part is a little tricky but is easy if you do it right. Get your other end of the string in one hand and the PVC pipe in the other. Step on the bottom of the PVC pipe with your foot and push down with your hand as well to bend the pipe. I bent mine pretty far and it never snapped. Once it is bent, slide the string and nut into the slit you made.
Your bow should look like this now
With a hot glue gun, glue the noodle in the middle to the PVC pipe
To make the arrow
Cut the 1/4 inch dowel down to 2 feet in length. Get your nerf dart, place a drop of hot glue down it and slide it on the dowel.
You are all done!
You can now decorate it with tape. I used this kind of tape. On the 20 I made I did the same design on the bow and arrow so it matched! Then kids weren’t fighting over who’s arrow was who’s! Worked Great!
Kids have a lot of fun and they last quite a long time! ENJOY AND HAVE FUN!!
I made these for a family reunion 3 years ago and they are still a HUGE hit for all of the grandkids! They seriously LOVE them! All the boys and girls lived in the haystack shooting at the hay bales! Super fun! I wanted to update a little change we made on these bad boys. The arrow rest, made out of a pool noodle, kept breaking off and ripping, so my brother and I improvised. I liked it enough to pass it along to you!
Instead of using a pool noodle, we just got a piece of wood and duck taped it to the side of the bow. It worked great and the kids really like it! Here is a picture of it to help you visualize the change.
For another DIY Summer activity, check out this DIY Water Weenie Squirt Gun!! Super fun!
Archery basics for beginners
Advice for a complete novice looking to start up and buy your first recurve bow and arrows. Find out more about the fantastic sport of archery. We hope this simplified beginners guide to archery will start to aim (sorry!) you in the right direction.
Browsing through all the products on our website may feel overwhelming. This article will help avoid confusion and frustration. There is no such thing as a silly question. Every top archer in the world started with nothing. No kit or knowledge of how to shoot a traditional recurve bow or longbow.
Please ask about anything. We have the expertise on hand to guide you. If you want to know what the best wood for bows is or whether you should shoot one type of arrow over another give us a call.
The first thing we would say if you are starting is to go and find a beginners course to join. Contact your local archery club, or contact one of our own Archery GB coaches who can train you. We run archery lessons at the shop here in Birkenhead.
Find your local club from these links. Archery GB is the UK governing body for target archery. Archery GBs Club Finder. The NFAS is the UK body for 3D field archery NFAS (National Field Archery Society) website . Learning how to shoot with a qualified coach will give you the best possible start in the sport. You will then know everything you need to get you started.
Types of archery
Types of archery bow
The bow most beginners start with and associated with the Olympics. Modern style with stabiliser rods, balance weights and sights. Traditional recurve bow without the bells and whistles. Usually made from wood and laminates.
The most high-tech of bows born around the 1970s and made for greatest accuracy. Consists of cams to make drawing higher bow weights easier to hold at full draw. Used with a mechanical release aid.
If you think of archery, then the odds are that you were thinking of Robin Hood. An English Longbow is the most basic (and the most fun) form of archery you can enjoy. A simple stick and string that utilises the archers’ skill and instincts. It’s the most challenging but also the most rewarding of the bow types. Each bow is unique with no two bows alike. Shot with wooden arrows and feather fletchings.
Also described as an American longbow. Developed in the 1930s. Howard Hill helped to make this bow style popular. The American Flatbow replaced the English longbow for target shooting. Olympic-style recurve bows are a modern development of the American flatbow. Flat bows use fibreglass and wood veneers such as red oak and black locust in the bow construction.
A bow style centuries old used by archers in the Eastern/Asiatic world. Shorter than a Longbow with recurved limbs and some have rigid limp tips (Siyahs). Usually shot from horseback but can also used without the horse!
Archery basics – a beginners recurve bow
Equipment basics – arrow shaft
Longbow Vs Recurve
It depends on your definition of ‘Longbow’. In the UK a Longbow is usually the term for the classic English Longbow of medieval times with a D shaped profile. In Europe and the rest of the world, a Longbow can be an American Flatbow also known as an American Longbow. Developed in the 1930s and used for target shooting and hunting.
What is a longbow?
For this article, we are using the term Longbow to mean an English Longbow. Made from either one piece of wood such as yew or osage orange. The tighter the growth rings the better for compression strength. Often termed as a ‘self-bow’. Good bows are also crafted from many straight grained wood laminates. Speed and performance are key to good wood choices.
This bow generally has a longer length of 72” and above. This bow of old ages is shot ‘off the hand’ without a shelf or sights. It’s a very simple bow in design yet one of the hardest bows to master. Steeped in nostalgia and romance, everyone loves an English Longbow. Should that be Welsh Longbow? Another article to come on that I’m sure!
What is a recurve bow?
Recurve bows are shorter in length than a Longbow. Easier to use in difficult environments. Perfect for dense forests or from horse-back where a longer bow would be a hindrance. The recurved tips of the bow enable enhanced speed and power to the shot.
Why shoot a longbow?
Do you want to connect with your battle-hardened ancestors of old? Do you like to smile a lot and have lots of fun? If the answer is yes, then this is going to be the bow for you. Styles include Victorian style target bows and longer draw length military warbows. This is what we love about traditional archery.
Why shoot a recurve bow?
Most people when learning will start with a recurve bow. There is a reason for this. Recurve bows are easy to find and easy to use by everyone no matter what age, and they are very forgiving to shoot.
Shooting your recurve arrows from a shelf rather than your hand is easier. The handle on a recurve is like a pistol grip. If you want a vast choice of arrow materials, then this may be the bow type for you. If transport is an issue and you would prefer to pack the bow up into a small case then think about a takedown recurve.
What size longbow do I need?
A longbow should fit to your height plus a couple of inches as a rough guide. If you shoot one that is too short, you will find the bow won’t feel smooth to draw. Too long and there is a waste of energy with the extra height of the limbs at full draw.
How to string a longbow
There are several methods to string a Longbow. There are push-pull and step through methods. We always tell our customers to use a double loop longbow stringer. This method puts an even strain on the limbs and avoids twisting the limbs.
It’s also safer as you have complete control of the stringing process. Using a stringer will keep your bow in peak condition and lengthen its lifespan.
How to shoot a longbow
Building your own arrows allows you to save about 5 to 10 dollars per dozen, but there’s an even better reason for building your own. You can experiment with all the components, with the various fletching styles and shaft sizes until you find the perfect arrow for your bowhunting requirements.
Check out our Step-by-Step guide to building your own arrows…
Making your own arrows is easy and fun, not to mention the satisfaction you’ll gain from taking game with arrows you’ve built yourself.
Anyone can do it – and do it well. Armed with only a few basic tools and the information offered here, you’ll have no problem turning raw shafts into top-quality hunting arrows.
Getting Started Building Your Own Arrows
If you’re building your arrows from the beginning, here is a list of everything you’ll need from cutting it, to fletching.
- Arrow Saw
- Arrow Inspector/Spinner
- Arrow Squaring Tool
- Insert Adhesive (Epoxy)
- Arrow Wraps (if wanted)
- Arrow Adhesive (Glue)
- Fletching Jig
Cutting Arrows To Length
Chances are, that if you’re building your own arrows, you’ve probably got some of your older arrows laying around. The easiest thing to do, is measure one of those arrows, and go off of that size for your new ones.
But if you want to start from scratch and use a different length of arrow, all you need to do is draw your bow with a full length, uncut arrow on it, and have someone else mark on the arrow where you’d like to cut it. Best recommendation is to mark the arrow about 1 1/2″ to 2 1/2″ past where the arrow sits on the arrow rest. If you go too long with your arrows, it can weaken the spine and affect your accuracy. If you cut it too short, you risk hitting your rest when you put your broadheads on.
Now that you’ve got your arrow length picked out, head over to the arrow saw and don’t forget to use eye protection when operating it.
If you’ve got an arrow saw similar to the one pictured above, you can take your arrow and place it with the nock end in the holder on the opposite side of the saw blade. Then take an allen wrench, and adjust the holder so that the blade of the saw is at the spot that was previously marked for cutting.
Once the holder is tightened down, you’re ready to cut. Simply turn on the saw, place the nock end of the arrow back into the holder, slowly move your arrow in towards the saw, and as the saw is cutting into your arrow, make sure that you spin the arrow so the saw can make an even cut on the shaft.
Squaring & Cleaning Your Arrow Shaft
Once you’ve got the arrow cut to length, it’s important to make sure that both ends of it are perfectly flush. If the ends of the arrow shaft aren’t completely square, it can effect both accuracy and the ability of a lighted nock if you use one.
What you’ll need to do is remove the nock from the arrow, mark on the ends of the shaft with a marker (preferably a metallic color), and then use your squaring tool until you no longer see any color left on the ends of the shaft.
After that, it’s time to clean out the carbon from the inside of the ends of the shaft.
It’s important to remove any excess carbon so that your adhesive can properly adhere to the inside of the shaft. To do this, take a q-tip and use either acetone, or water, and make a few swabs into both ends of the shaft. You’ll notice the black carbon showing up on the q-tip, make sure to clean it until there is no remaining carbon.
How to Make a Homemade Bow and Arrow…
- Small Hand Saw
- Pruning Scissors
- Live 1/2 Inch thick tree limb
- Strong, Thin String
- Electrical Tape
- – 1/4 or 5/16 Dow Rod
- X-Acto Knife
- Super Glue
This adventure is one that will make any boys heart excited! Grab a small hack saw or hand saw and a pair of pruning scissors and head for your nearest wooded area to harvest your bow stick. Find a live sapling or tree limb about 1/2 in thick and 4-6 feet long. Cut it down and use your pruning scissors to snip off all of the small twigs.
Next, we loaded up and headed to our local superstore. We picked up some 5/16″ dow rods from the crafts section and also bought some string for the bow. On our way home, we stopped by the neighborhood pond where the geese hang out and picked up some feathers to make the arrow veins.
At home, cut your bow to it’s final length which should be at or just above your child’s belly button from the ground. Tie your string to one end. Turn the bow over and push down on the end to give your bow a slight bend and get some tension on the bowstring. Pull the string over the end of the bent bow and then wrap the string around the end 6-8 times, then tie it off.
Last for the bow, wrap electrical tape around your knots on both ends, around the middle for a handle, and around the string where you should put the arrow.
The arrow construction is pretty simple. Cut the dow to the desired arrow length. (18-24 inches) Wrap electrical tape near the rear of the arrow to prevent the arrow from splitting. Next, notch out the back end with an X-Acto knife or saw so it will seat on the string. Use an exact knife to cut one side off of your feather, then glue a 3-4 inch length of the 1/2 feather to each side.
- Junior Archery Set with Targets
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* If you can’t find feathers, or have trouble getting them glued on right, tape paper feathers around your arrow, anything to keep it flying straight.
* You might have to cut a notch in the ends of your bow for the string to keep it from sliding down.
*Launch arrows at a safe distance from people and valuables. =) Teach your kids safety when using this handmade toy.
* Cut 2-3 bow sticks while you are at the woods in case you break one.
Recurve bows propel arrows to a greater distance and with increased power as compared to a conventional bow. They are popular for their versatility and their drawback power depends on how well they are constructed. Learn how to make a recurve bow in a few simple steps with our mini-guide.
It takes years and plenty of skills to make an ideal recurve bow. Let us help you get started with the following steps:
Table Of Contents
- Preparing the Recurve Bow
- Step 1
- Step 2
- Step 3
- Step 4
- Step 5
- Step 6
- Shaping the Recurve Bow
- Step 1
- Step 2
- Step 3
- Stringing the Recurve Bow
- Step 1
- Step 2
- Step 3
- Step 4
- Step 5
Preparing the Recurve Bow
Start by purchasing a wooden stave. This will be used to shape your bow. The wooden stave needs to be of the same length as you desire your bow to be. The material of the stave should be strong, durable, malleable, and flexible.
The ideal materials to use when making a bow are maple, hickory, lemonwood, and yew.
Now gather the following tools to make the process convenient:
- Vice grip
- Tillering stick
- Bow shaping frame
- A drawknife
- Round object
- Heat Gun
- Screw Clamps
- A large file
Using a pen, mark the outline of the arrow rest and the limbs of your bow. Now stand the stave upright in one hand and swing the hatchet with the other. Make sure that you make the sides of the stave as smooth as possible.
Now the decision of choosing between narrow limbs, wide ones, or flat ones is entirely up to you. Make your decision and create a mark where you desire your handle to be.
At this point, you need to test your wood stave. See that it bends properly when you put the bottom tip against the instep while holding the upper tip in place with one hand, and pull them back towards you.
The side should face away from you when you are shooting. But don’t overdo this step, as you might end up ruining your stave.
Now it’s time to shape the limbs. After you’re done getting the bow into an outline with your hatchet, place the handle portion of your wood stave in the vice and properly tighten it.
The back should be facing in an upward direction. Take your drawknife and in long strokes, draw the knife along the stave. Keep doing this until your stave reaches the same thickness as you want for your bow.
Using sandpaper, sand down any ragged and rough edges in the wood stave. Remember, if you make your bow too thin, it will be likely to break.
Shaping the Recurve Bow
Once you have prepared your bow, depending on the curve you want for it, move it to various segments of the bow shaping frame accordingly. Two curves are required for the recurve for each limb.
One needs to be away from the handle while the other needs to be back towards the handle. To secure the stave to the frame, use some screw clamps. If you are having difficulty in doing so, using a heat gun, heat your stave up, and then secure that section properly to the shaping frame.
The measurements need to be extremely precise, therefore bend both the limbs as equally as you can. To do so, simply bend the wood stave at almost an equal distance from each end of the handle.
Now to avoid any messy situation, leave each section properly secured in the bow shaping frame for about 12 hours. If 12 hours isn’t doable for you, then make sure you leave them for at least 6 hours. This allows the wood to set firmly in position and it will also ensure a longer life span and increased effectiveness.
Stringing the Recurve Bow
Start by cutting notches for the string and put them into the bottom and top of the limbs. Notches are responsible for holding the bowstring in position. Using an elongated cylindrical file for this purpose is considered to be ideal, but you can also use a knife and a narrow, flat file.
To protect the durability of the exterior wood, cut the notches on the interior of the bow.
Tillering means to provide your bow with a draw. Once your bow has reached the desired shape, install a tillering string on it to tiller it. The length of the tillering string needs to be almost double the length you want your bowstring to be.
Tie a stable loop on both ends of the string and secure it to the notches on the limb. You can make use of a parachute cord for a tillering string.
Pull the tillering string to one of the notches that are closer to the upper portion of the tillering stick. Now slowly pull the recurve bow further and notice the bending of the bow.
As it’s often said, slow and steady wins the race. It is best to execute the tillering process slowly and gradually.
At this point, if you start hearing an unusual sound from the bow, stop right here, and using your large file, shape the limbs further. It can take a few months for the tillering process to complete; executing it slowly will allow you to enhance the draw of the bow to a suitable length.
After your bow has reached an acceptable draw, it’s time to remove it from the tillering stick and take the tillering string off. Bind the bowstring by looping both ends around the notches. In terms of bowstrings, nylon is quite a popular choice.
Once you’re done with the tillering process, it’s time to finish the bow by adding your choice of artwork, the protective covering, or leather of your choice to give it a finished look.
October 1, 2014
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Ages 5-7 Ages 8-10 Things to Make
All of my boys have been wanting to own a good bow and arrows! We have purchased plastic bow sets with suction cup arrows that have lasted a week or two before breaking. They have also tried making bows out of sticks and even Tinker Toys (not especially safe – ha!) Here’s an option that is not only sturdy but also extremely inexpensive!
The supplies for each bow and arrow cost well under $2.
This project is for whatever age you think is safe. It depends on the kid, really!
To make one you will need:
- 3/4 inch PVC pipe. Use the cheapest, thinnest type.
- A drill
- Nylon braided string (braided, not twisted) We found ours at Home Depot near the tool section.
- A drill
- Duct tape
- Dowel rods (81 cents each at Home Depot, each one made two arrows. My hubby thinks they were 1/4 inch thickness – make sure what you get will fit inside your Nerf darts)
- Nerf darts
- A saw
- A lighter
Step 1: Use the saw to cut your PVC pipe to the desired length. We made two sizes – 3 feet and 4 feet. The one in the picture above is 4 ft.
Step 2: Drill a small hole on each end of the PVC pipe to tie your string through.
Step 3: Attach the string by tying it through the hole in the pipe. Melt the ends with the lighter to fuse, and the string won’t come untied. My husband also had the boys pull on their bows to bend them while he tied the string so that the string would be as tight as possible.
Step 4: Decorate with duct tape.
Step 5: Use the saw to cut your dowels to the right length for arrows. The length needed will depend on how large you make the bow. Insert each dowel into a Nerf dart. Secure with a little duct tape if needed. Use a pocketknife to cut a notch in the end of each arrow to help secure it on the string when you pull it back.
**The bow stays straight until you pull back the arrow to shoot.
Owen (age 5) has put so much effort into learning to shoot his bow!
I love how he balances it between his feet to put the arrow on the string.
More things to make with PVC pipe:
Haley @ Ever Never Again Oct 3, 2014
My boys would love this! And I love projects that are cheap and easy. Perfect. Thanks for sharing!
yanique Feb 3, 2015
Love this idea. I’m going to attempt to do this with my 10 year old son.
Cathy Mar 30, 2016
The string doesn’t allow the arrow to go very far. We bought the skinny, nylon string. How far does your arrow fly?
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I’m mom to four boys and one little girl. Frugal Fun for Boys and Girls is a place to find fun activities that kids will LOVE! We specialize in LEGO building ideas, STEM activities, and play ideas for active kids!
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Supplies for Pipe Cleaner Valentine Arrows:
- pipe cleaners (aka chenille stems)
- wooden dowel or popsicle stick
- red sparkle paint – Thanks, DecoArt
- sponge brush
1. Using your red sparkle paint and sponge brush, paint your wooden dowel or stick. Let it dry completely. I used a tall drinking cup to set it in to dry, painting one half of the stick and then the other.
2. To create your heart shaped arrow, first bend the pipe cleaner in half, but don’t press. About half way down, twist the two ends together all the way down. Form the top half of the bent pipe cleaner into a heart shape.
3. You can create a large heart for your arrow to strike, just twist the ends of the pipe cleaner together at the bottom.
4. Once your painted stick is dry, add one pipe cleaner to it to form the bow. Wrap and twist each end of the pipe cleaner to each end of the stick.
You’re ready to spread some love with your cute little bow and arrows. Now go find your sweetheart!
Check out these other Valentine’s Day crafts:
- Bouquet of Hearts Valentine’s Day Cards
- Pop-Out Valentine’s Day Card
- Footprint Bee Mine Valentine’s Day Cards
- Valentine’s Day LOVE Sugar Scrub
- Valentine’s Day Tree With Clay Hearts
- Valentine’s Day Heart-Punched Treat Plates
- Valentine’s Day Coloring Pages for Kids
- Crochet Heart Bookmark Craft
Marie is a mother of 3 living in Seattle, WA. She’s been the founder and managing editor of Make and Takes for the last 13 years, curating a DIY website with kids craft tutorials, home decor ideas, and simple recipes. As well as the author of the book, Make and Takes for Kids. Marie graduated with an Early Childhood and Elementary teaching degree and is currently teaching 1st Grade in Seattle. She loves sharing her creativity here at Make and Takes!
It’s easy to make your own archery kit, once you have the right equipment. For this you need: a 5-foot branch and a 1 or 2 foot branch for the arrow; hemp string; feathers; flint stone or metal; dead sticks of about 12 to 18 inches; feathers; cardboard; and a knife.
For the bow, choose a piece of dead wood, preferably bendable and at least an inch in diameter and 5 foot long. Cut two notches in the branch, about 1 1/2 inches from each end. The notches should go about halfway into the bow and must be on the side of the bow opposite from the branch’s natural curve.
The smaller branches are for the arrows. Make these as straight as possible, sanding them if needed. Cut one notch at the end of the arrow, creating a nice hook. This is where the string will sit at the end of the arrow, so make a nice deep groove.
Next cut a piece of your hemp string about three fourths of the length of the bow. It must be smaller than the bow. Tie loops at each end of the string that are big enough to fit around the notch that you made in the last step. Take the loops that you just tied and put them around the notches on each end of the stick.
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The art of how to make your own arrows is a survival skill worthy of our attention.
Why? Because it’s a major form of self-reliance.
And as survivalists we love self-reliance.
Imagine pairing the power of learning – How To Make Your Own Arrows – with the skill of – How To Make A Longbow.
You’d never be an unarmed and helpless sap again.
You’ll have the powerful ability, to take natural resources and mold them into a highly useful survival tool.
And not only a useful tool but a deadly one.
Regardless of whether your motivation to make your own arrows is focused on self-reliance, as a fun hobby, or to just impress your friends, the following instructions will show you step by step how to do it right.
But before we can make an arrow, we need to fully understand the basic parts that make up an arrow.
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Basic Parts of An Arrow
Before you can make your own arrows, you must understand the basic parts of an arrow.
The good news is arrows are fairly simple devices and only include a few component parts.
So let’s go through them from tip to end.
At the leading tip of an arrow is the “arrowhead”.
This is the deadly sharp tip that does the real damage.
It can be skinny, broad, and normally made out of stone or metal.
But the good ones are razor sharp and can penetrate deep into your intended target.
The next part of an arrow is the “shaft”. As the name implies, it’s the long skinny part of the arrow that attaches the arrowhead and the fletchings.
You can think of the arrow shaft similar to the chassis of a car. It’s not sexy but holds everything together.
This leads us to part 3.
The fletching is the thin blades of feather or plastic that are essential for controlling the arrow’s flight trajectory.
Without fletchings on the back of the shaft, your arrow will fly erratically and out of control.
Hitting a target without fletchings is a much more difficult task.
Lastly is the nock. The nock is a small “notch” at the base of the arrow where the bowstring and the arrow meet. A proper notch is essential for the bowstring to fire the arrow.
Without a notch at the back end of the arrow, the full force of the bowstring release would not completely transfer to the arrow.
The bottom line is notch is critical for bow and arrow performance.
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How To Make Your Own Arrows
The process of making arrows can be broken down into making the component parts and then assembling those parts.
So I’m going to start with arrowheads, end with the nock, and then wrap up with how to assemble the entire thing.
How To Make Your Own Arrowheads
Getting the arrowhead right is essential to building a good arrow.
You can make your own arrowheads out of a number of raw products. Stone, rebar, porcelain, or even glass can become an arrowhead.
As long as the arrowhead has balance and is sharp as hell.
Here are the basic steps in making your own arrowheads:
- Using a hammer or stone, break pieces of Flint, Slate, Obsidian, or Chert into roughly triangular pieces – no longer than 2 inches and no wider than 1 inch.
- Trimming and shaping the arrowheads is accomplished through a process called “Flint Knapping”. To do this, strike lightly against the edges with a nail or screwdriver to produce jagged, sharper edges. This produces strong edges.
- The next part is aptly called “Grinding” because you use a stone or sandpaper to grind away the edge until it is razor-sharp. This weakens the edges that will wear down with use, but the edges are not as important as the point. So I wouldn’t worry too much.
- Finally, chip away a couple of indents at the bottom of the arrowhead for fastening to the shaft. This can be achieved using the bolt or screw to sand away stone to create perfect little half-circle indents.
If an image is worth 1000 words, then a video is even better. So let’s walk through a few excellent how-to videos on arrow making.
- How to Set Up a Compound Bow
- Step 1: Check Draw Length
- Step 2: Check Bow Specs
- Step 3: Check Cam Timing
- Step 4: Centershot and Time the Rest
- Step 5: Nocking Points and Tied D-Loops
- Step 6: Attach or Level Sight
- Step 7: Tie Peeps
- Step 8: Choose Arrows
Owning a compound bow equals an exciting time, but it also means that you’ve got a lot of work ahead of you. Setting it up and tuning it can be just as much fun as shooting it. You get the satisfaction that you’re shooting with something you put together yourself.
Many times, you can do all the work in a home workshop or garage, though you might need a press. However, you may want to talk to a local bow professional to seek advice and help with anything you can’t do yourself. Learning how to set up a compound bow is the first step to becoming an expert in using it.
How to Set Up a Compound Bow
There are a variety of steps you must follow to set up your compound bow. It can take a bit of time and may require some patience. However, you need to complete this step to ensure that it will draw and shoot correctly when you’re ready.
Of course, you can also go to a professional bow shop and have someone help you. Nonetheless, it is still a good idea if you do learn how to set it up yourself. For that, we’ve got your back.
Step 1: Check Draw Length
If you’ve got a brand new bow or you’ve put new cables and strings on an old one, it is essential to check your specs for the bow and you. First, confirm your draw length or find it with a simple calculation.
To do that, stretch out your arms and measure your wingspan. You may need someone to help you do this. Make sure to measure from middle finger to middle finger. Then, take that number and divide it by 2.5 to get your draw length.
For example, if you have a 70-inch wingspan, divide 70 by 2.5. You get 28 inches for your draw.
Step 2: Check Bow Specs
Next, you need to ensure that the bow is compliant to the factory-specified measurements. Tighten your draw weight to the maximum poundage. You can mark your tiller bolts using a pencil if needed to give yourself a visual guide if you must back off the weight later.
Now, measure the length between axles by using a tape measure and running it through from the top cam axle pin to its lower cam pin. In most cases, a 32-inch bow is going to measure within 1/8-inch of those 32 inches.
Many new bows are going to be spot on, but if it is off, you’ll need to untwist or twist the cables until it is right. Twisting will shorten the space between the axles while taking them off is going to lengthen it. You may need a press to do this, or you can go to your local bow shop and have a professional do it.
Next, you should check brace height. Measure from the grip to the string. If it is off, you can add or remove twists from your string to get it right. This can also be done by a professional if needed.
Step 3: Check Cam Timing
Many modern bows have cam marks to make sure that the timing is right. They can vary widely from one manufacturer to the next, but they are usually hash marks or dots. If the cams are timed properly, the cables pass directly between them.
If the cable is off the mark, you could have a timing issue. Ask a friend to draw the bow and check the marks. The cams are going to roll off the peak draw weight and into the valley at the same time. If you notice draw stops on the bottom or top cams, they should touch the limbs or cables at the same time.
Bow makers aren’t off point on this in most cases, but it is possible that something went off during shipping. If your bow has a timing issue, you can’t fix it yourself. Take it back to the place where you bought it, and they can fix it for you.
Step 4: Centershot and Time the Rest
Next, you will need to bolt the rest and nock an arrow. Then, level it and try to get the arrow running straight to the flatter side of the riser. While centershot is different for every model, it’s best to start at 7/8-inch or 13/16-inch from the riser.
If you’re shooting drop-aways, you’re going to have to clamp, serve, or tie the rest cord to your downward buss cable. Make sure it goes into its full capture position during the last few inches of its draw cycle.
Step 5: Nocking Points and Tied D-Loops
Next, make sure your bow is leveled in the vise with the arrow and string level. You can purchase a string level to help with this. Many bows have an almost perfectly level knocking point, but others are 1/16-inch or 1/8-inch higher.
Research your bow’s model or make to make sure. However, proper tuning will fix any issues, so don’t worry so much about this step.
Step 6: Attach or Level Sight
Make sure to bolt the sight to the riser and secure it in a vise before attaching or leveling the sight. Use a carpenter’s and string level to make sure it’s straight. If the sight bubble is also level, then it’s good. If not, use the sight manual to learn how to make adjustments.
Step 7: Tie Peeps
You need the right peep height, as well. To find it, draw the bow with eyes closed, find an anchor point, and open your eyes. Ask a friend to mark your string at eye level and work from there. When the peep is there, don’t secure it immediately. Shoot for a bit to adjust it until it feels good.
Step 8: Choose Arrows
Arrows are marked by spine (stiffness). Slow arrows need less spine to fly true, while fast bows usually need stiffer spines. Check the manufacturer’s website to help determine the right spine. Then, make sure you spin-test and weight all the arrows and remove any that deviate by over 10 grains.
Now that you know how to set up a compound bow, it’s time to tune and test it. Stand a little closer than usual to your target, sight it, follow the directions for shooting, and shoot.
If it goes where you wanted it to go, it’s set up. If not, you may need to go through the steps again or tune it accordingly. If you can’t figure it out yourself, you can go to a professional bow shop and ask for help. A professional can show you how to do it and tune it so that it works correctly.
A little while ago, we told you all about our very own Richard’s hobby of building and flying model airplanes. In this article, our technical expert Hamish Cook shares his passion for archery – and talks us through how he built a traditional flatbow in bamboo and epoxy.
The flatbow is the most traditional and ancient bow of them all. In prehistoric times before gunpowder was invented, this tool was used by tribes around the world for hunting and fighting, mainly because it was easy to find the materials to make one.
Today, you’re most likely to find a flatbow down at your local archery club. Although even here, these primitive bows are a rarity. As a keen archery fan myself, I found the idea of using one very appealing. I learnt to shoot on a modern recurve bow, yet a flatbow has no telescopic sights or other tools to steady your aim; instead, it’s a matter of pure skill to hit the target. So when some friends told me that they’d built their own out of bamboo, I jumped at the chance of doing the same.
Taking it back to basics
The basis of the bow is a bamboo flooring plank, about a metre long and 120mm wide; just a standard one, with tongues and grooves down the sides. You’ll find these down at your local DIY store and you may even be able to ask for one as a sample. Bamboo is the perfect material for a bow as it’s flexible; a bow must be able to flex and spring back to shape, to give the arrow its much-needed propulsion!
I also used some simple cutting and shaping tools, plus some sandpaper.
For bonding I used WEST SYSTEM® G/flex® 655 epoxy adhesive. The G/flex epoxy is an essential addition, as it allows the bonds between different parts of the bow to remain strong while offering enough flexibility.
Cutting, bonding and marking
First of all, I cut off the tongues and the grooves so that I had a solid length of bamboo. Then I split this length exactly down the middle so I had two thinner halves.
The next step was to create a finger joint, which involved cutting interlocking shapes in one end of each piece of the wood (see picture). I bonded this with an epoxy G/flex blend and allowed it to cure.
I then covered the bulk of the newly-bonded piece of bamboo in masking tape and marked a centre line in both directions. Referring to the plans, I then marked out all the cutting, shaping, and gluing that I needed to do; this included marking the length of the limbs all the way to the end, the size of the riser, and so forth.
At this point I cut the wood to size and tapered the ends with a plane; this is what gives the bow its characteristic shape that is fatter in the middle.
Shaping and finishing
I then needed to make the bow even bigger in the middle so it would be easier to hold on to. To do this, I bonded a piece of black walnut on both the front and the back of the bow using the G/flex epoxy (making sure to abrade the gluing area with sandpaper first) and then shaped the wood according to the plans.
I also used the same approach to bond extra wood onto each end of the bow, which I shaped and cut a notch into where the string would be attached.
It was at this point that I became pressed for time, so a friend of mine (who had already made his own bow) kindly finished it off for me. First, he sanded it and finished it with a basic spray lacquer that you can get from a DIY store (you can also seal it with sanding sealer if you wish). Finally, he stitched some leather onto the handle for an authentic, rustic look. I doubt I would have been able to do this myself, so it was a great addition!
I can’t wait to use my new bow and test out my primeval hunting skills!
Thanks very much to Hamish Cook for his contribution.
To learn more about WEST SYSTEM products, visit their website.
There is a lot of focus on Crafting in Amazon Games’ New World. Before you even reach level 10, NPCs will be giving you quests to craft this and that since the game wants to make sure you will be able to make your own stuff in case you need it.
So guess what? When it comes to arrows, most likely, you will have to craft them too.
There isn’t only one kind of arrow in the game. Better arrows also reacquire better ingredients to be made, and you must know where to find them. That means a lot of time spent walking around, breaking rocks, cutting down trees, hunting animals, and crafting ingredients to craft good arrows.
Luckily, knowing exactly what to do speeds up the process quite a bit. So if you want to learn how to make arrows in New World, stick around.
Where to Craft
First things first, you need to find a proper place to craft your arrows. This shouldn’t be a problem since every settlement in the game will have a Woodshop for you to make them.
The biggest problem that you’ll face is most likely finding and crafting the needed ingredients for making good arrows.
However, there are lesser arrows in New World that are quite easy to make if you just need them to help you survive your way back to a settlement.
Types of Arrow
Right at the beginning of the game, New World will introduce you to crafting when you interact with the campfire in front of the Everfall Watchtower.
At that place, you will be able to see what most likely is the first type of arrow you will have access to, Flint Arrows.
These are the only kind of arrows you can craft at a campfire, so although they are not great, they might become your only option. Depending on the situation, flint arrows will be better than no arrows.
Those are the easy-to-make arrows of the game and are there to help you have any sort of arrow whatsoever while you level up your Engineering skill. All you need is to create 50 Flint Arrows is:
- 5 Flint
- 2 Green Wood
- 3 Feathers
At this point, you should know how to find flints and how to get greenwood from the bushes. As for the feathers, you might want to chase some turkeys to get them.
Once you have the ingredients, just go to the Workshop, click on Flint Arrows, select the quantity that you are going to make, and click on craft. It is that simple.
After a while — and if you have a choice — you should stop using Flint Arrows. The type of arrow that you will use the most until you level up your character and Engineering skill is called Iron Arrows.
These are a little more complicated to make than Flint arrows due to demanding a more difficult ingredient to find, so you will have to know where to find Iron Ore in New World. Here is what you need to make Iron Arrows:
- 4 Iron Ingot
- 2 Timber
- 3 Feathers
The procedure is the same here. As long as you have the required skill level and all the needed ingredients, you can just select the Iron Arrows, the quantity you want, and click to craft them.
Finally, once you are good enough at crafting — and if you manage to put your hands on Steel — you can move on to Steel Arrows.
The better the arrows, the more complicated it is to craft them. You go from twigs and rocks to Steel Ingots and Lumber.
Chances are, once you are at a level that you can craft those better arrows, you most likely already know how to do all this. Here is what you need to make Steel Arrows:
- 3 Steel Ingot
- 2 Lumber
- 3 Feathers
With time, the game will present rare ingredients that provide special effects and make even better arrows. Those are for much later in the game, though.
Even Better Arrows
With time, you might be able to make Starmetal Arrows or some other form of even better arrows for your bow. Please note that your skills and ingredients might not be enough, though.
Some special arrows might demand the Workshop to be at a higher level so you can craft certain items. So make sure to check the level of the local Workshop before you get frustrated. You can always travel to a town that has a higher-level Workshop, though.